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When assembling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred names. However, situated prominently among these food giants is a simple salonu located in a distant part of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has made the owners completely astonished.

“I am completely astonished,” says the owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest restaurant earning such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the fare, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary honour.